Innsbruck is often treated as a gateway to skiing and alpine adventure. That sells the Austrian city short.
Visitors to the capital of Tyrol can spend the morning in the long shadow of history and be up in the Alps in time for lunch.
My introduction to Innsbruck, with its population of 133,491, came through a guided tour led by Monika Unterholzner, whose family has lived in Tyrol for generations.
We walked through the Old Town (Altstadt), where Austria’s imperial legacy under the Habsburgs remains visible at nearly every turn. Of all the places in Europe where the dynasty left its mark, Innsbruck is surely the most underrated.
Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian I made Innsbruck a center of his realm at the turn of the 16th century. The Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl), Imperial Palace (Hofburg), Court Church (Hofkirche) and Ambras Castle (Schloss Ambras) all testify to that era.
The architecture alone is worth the trip.
The Old Town features pastel-colored facades, narrow streets and inviting public squares. Arcaded buildings, medieval townhouses and baroque churches stand shoulder to shoulder, creating a cityscape that feels both elegant and lived-in. Unlike some European old towns that exist largely for tourists, Innsbruck’s remains part of daily life. Yes, there are shops selling overpriced souvenirs, but there are also specialty stores, cafes and restaurants frequented by locals.
One of the most significant landmarks is Court Church.
From the outside, the church is relatively understated. Step inside and you discover a remarkable sacred space. At the center of the nave stands the elaborate, though empty, tomb of Maximilian I. Surrounding it are 28 larger-than-life bronze statues representing members of his family, ancestors and historical figures, including King Arthur of Camelot fame. The statues stand in silent formation around the kaiser’s memorial.
Even more remarkable was the lack of crowds. During my visit, there were moments when it felt as though I had the church almost entirely to myself. Travelers who time their visit carefully can enter during one of the regularly scheduled religious services, when admission through the attached museum is not charged.
Christianity’s influence is apparent everywhere. Church spires dominate the skyline. Two of the most notable churches besides the Court Church are St. James Cathedral (Dom St. Jakob) and Wilten Basilica (Wiltener Basilika), whose elaborate baroque and rococo interiors reflect the culmination of the Counter-Reformation.
For all its history, Innsbruck’s greatest draw may still be the mountains. The city hosted the Winter Olympics in 1964 and 1976, and it takes only a glance toward the surrounding peaks to understand why.
One afternoon, I rode the Nordkette Cable Car from the city center into Karwendel Nature Park (Naturpark Karwendel), a protected area encompassing more than 280 square miles of alpine wilderness. Looking down on Innsbruck from more than 7,000 feet, I wondered whether there is another city in Europe where urban life and alpine beauty coexist so seamlessly.
Rather than ride back down, I hiked.
The descent was moderate — hiking up would be a far greater challenge — and offered spectacular views of the surrounding Alps, the densely settled valley and farms perched on slopes that appear almost impossibly steep.
Innsbruck also benefits from its location at the heart of the Alps.
For centuries, merchants, pilgrims, emperors and armies crossed nearby mountain passes, making Innsbruck and Tyrol important links between Italy to the south and Germany to the north. That strategic location shaped everything from the region’s architecture and culture to its cuisine.
The influence is especially apparent at the table. Menus feature traditional Austrian and German specialties alongside lighter dishes inspired by neighboring Italy. Fresh salads, local cheeses and seasonal ingredients complement heartier Alpine dishes. Wine lists include selections from both Tyrol and South Tyrol, Italy’s German-speaking Alpine region. Riesling is common, but so are white wines made from lesser-known grapes, including muller-thurgau and sylvaner (also spelled silvaner) that rarely appear on American wine lists.
By the time I left Innsbruck, its appeal was obvious. It offers everything anyone would want to do and see in the Old World without the crowds.
If you go
Innsbruck has its own airport with connections through major European hubs. Travelers can also fly into Munich, Zurich or Venice and continue by rental car or train. Innsbruck is a natural addition to a trip to Munich for Oktoberfest.
For those driving, take the scenic route whenever possible. Coming from Italy, the drive over Brenner Pass is particularly memorable.
Book a room at Hotel Grauer Bar, an independently owned four-star hotel within walking distance of most major sights. It also offers an underground parking garage.
Even if you aren’t a hiker, take the Nordkette Cable Car to the top and have lunch on the terrace of Restaurant Seegrube. For dinner, consider eating at Das Brahms, Restaurant Ottoburg and Riese. Of the three, Riese was the standout, offering the best combination of food and service.
Weingut Romasi is one of the closest wineries to Innsbruck’s city center. By car, the 15-mile drive from Hotel Grauer Bar takes about 30 minutes.
The 133 steps of the City Tower (Stadturm) are well worth the climb. Among the many museums, the Tyrolean Folk Art Museum (Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum) is a must. Visitors should also purchase an Innsbruck Card, which includes admission to every major museum and attraction, unlimited use of public transportation and a round-trip ride on the Nordkette Cable Car. Prices start at €69 (about $79) for adults and 34.50 euros (about $40) for children under 16.
Unterholzner, the tour guide, offers individual tours and can be booked through her website.
Dennis Lennox writes a travel column for The Christian Post.
Dennis Lennox writes about travel, politics and religious affairs. He has been published in the Financial Times, Independent, The Detroit News, Toronto Sun and other publications. Follow @dennislennox on Twitter.
